Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Lizards


As a child I was fascinated by small wildlife – caterpillars, beetles, chameleons, praying mantis, ants, butterflies, frogs, grasshoppers , spiders…  There was plenty of opportunity for observation and interaction as we lived surrounded by nature on the slopes of an untamed koppie  (a small rocky hill) on the outskirts of Johannesburg.  I spent most of my time outdoors, a grubby, curious child, squatting close to the ground,  enthralled by the movements and activities of tiny creatures.  

My bedroom became the temporary residence for many.  There were the caterpillars Barbara and William – beautiful Barbara was pale green with a row of gold spots that looked like eyes and little peaks along her back, while William, named for the naughty schoolboy in the “Just William” books my mother read us,  had black and white stripes around his body as though he were serving time.  I regarded them far more highly than their unnamed silkworm relatives munching on mulberry leaves in a shoebox, its lid punctured by the tines of a fork.  

There were glossy brown rhinoceros beetles with  brave curving horns. Tok-tok beetles with lanky white jointed legs below a strangely shaped black carapace which they tapped on the hard earth before rain, making a tok-tok sound heralding the coming of a downpour.  Shongololos, (millipedes)  explored my room, their red legs flowing in unison like a wave,  and, at the lightest touch, curled in an instant into a wrapped spiral.  

Our family doctor phoned my mother before he made house calls to insist that I contain my menagerie to my room during his visit.  I can’t remember what  creepy crawly  had frightened him in the long , dim passageway leading to the bedrooms. 

But most of all I had a thing for lizards.  They would sprawl on the rocks in our garden, absorbing the warmth.  They could dart ever so quickly into a crevice or freeze against the stone, hoping that by their stillness they would not be noticed.  I would stare and stare, soaking in the details of their lithe bodies: the minute scallop of the scales, the perfect little feet, the slide of skin over an eye, the  slight curl in the tail.   I’d seen far more dramatic lizards in other parts of the country:  lizards with wildly flamboyant tails,  lizards with fearsome heads and spiny bodies.   The lizards in our garden  were smaller, with smooth, supple grey-brown bodies. 

One became my friend.  It climbed on my hand.  I would go after school and sit on the rock where it lived and it would come to me.  One day I took it to school in the pocket of my brown uniform.  When I came home I released it back on its rock.  I took it to a garden party with my parents and let it loose to play in the garden.   When it was time to go home, I raced around hunting for it, devastated that I had lost it and that it would be left in a strange place.  My impatient parents finally insisted that we leave and were about to forcibly drag me away when I spotted my lizard, scooped it up and climbed happily in the car. (Later I overheard my parents’ doubt. They did not believe this was the same lizard.  They did not think a lizard would befriend a child).  But I knew better.

I don’t see as many lizards where I live now. But on this last trip to South Africa I was awed by the lizards I saw on my walks. There was something surreal about their beauty and drama and the way they appeared in so many places.  I felt a strange connection with them and was reminded, for the first time in years, about my little wild lizard pet.







Monday, January 30, 2012

Mozambique


Ten of us are whisked by boat across turquoise water – skirting exposed sandbars – squinting into the sun.  It takes an hour to reach our destination – a spread of spacious thatched cottages on a ridge facing the water.  Remote.  Secluded.   A wildlife sanctuary in Mozambique.

 



Boxes of mangoes, pawpaws, pineapples, coconuts, vivid red tomatoes are offloaded onto the beach.  A huge fish (tall as a man) is dragged from the boat. 




We pull down our sun hats, shoulder heavy bags, clutch our full allowance of duty-free alcohol and cross the wooden boardwalk though mangroves.  The incoming tide flows in clear below our feet, wraps around the twisted trunks, bubbles in the crab holes.  Beyond the narrow strip of mangroves we climb sandy shaded steps and rinse our feet in a cement trough of clean water. 

We have arrived!

Ahead of us white cushioned loungers on a wooden deck, a cool plunge pool under a tree, and beneath a spreading thatched roof are couches and hammocks, giant kikoy covered cushions, low Swahili tables, baskets of field guides, a long dining table which comfortably seats the 10 of us. 
All of it open to the views and the breezes.




A week of bliss.

Stuffed crab, grilled king prawns, fresh coconut and platters of tropical fruit.   Long walks on sandy beaches unmarked by any other footprint.  The drama of tropical skies and soaring thunderheads.  The constantly changing light on sea and sand – ribbons of color.












 A week of bliss

 Finding a giant sanddollar on an exposed sandbank.  Watching dolphins romp around our dhow.  A flock of flamingo rising. Mullet jumping silver around us as we swim at sunset.   Canoe races and colorful reef fish around the jetty.   Swimming in a tropical downpour – body, ocean, rain – all of it the same balmy temperature.













 






 
A week of bliss ...
 
Laughter around the dining table - playing parlour games after dinner - reading in companionable silence. 
Solar powered lights, private outdoor showers, mosquito nets lowered at night.


My outdoor shower complete with tree


Time to leave. Bruise colored clouds crowded the sky.  We could see distant rain falling over water.  Our boat sped back to the mainland.  A cyclone was predicted the following day.  We flew without incident back to Johannesburg. 


But, back in Mozambique, the tropical storms rolled in --   Dando and Funzo.  Floods, gale-force winds, impassable roads,  submerged houses, fear and drownings.

And flooding in South Africa's Kruger National Game park forced it to close its gates.  Dozens of tourists on safari had to be airlifted to safety, people were rescued from tree tops.

The three youngest in our group (none yet 21) were driving back.  V.  developed malaria and had to be flown home.  The two boys, instead of taking one and a half days (as they had on the drive up) only got home more than a week later. They hunkered down during storms and re-routed through Zimbabwe because  the national highway to Maputo was flooded.   They finally arrived  safely, high on the adventure of their trip.  

Yet again I am awed and humbled by the beauty and the force of nature.

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

The Open Road


When I  went on holiday as a child (four of us crammed in the back of the car, squabbling over the window seats, bored  with the empty landscapes, longing for the ocean), the trip seemed endless, a necessary  trial of endurance before we could reach the sea and the bliss of our 6 week annual beach holiday.

The cars were slower and less reliable then, the roads narrower and winding.  There were always incidents on the journey – punctures and the slow palaver of changing a tire, an overheated car and then a hike across a hot barren landscape in search of water from an animal water trough below the creaking blades of a windmill,  broken fan belts which required sifting through mum’s suitcase for a nylon stocking to use as a substitute.   

My father loved those trips. The adventure and challenges of the journey appealed to him as much as the holiday itself and in later years when we raced to the coast on a fast highway without incident, or simply flew down from Johannesburg, he complained that we were losing a vital part of the experience. We were becoming disconnected with the journey, with what it took to get from one place to another. 

Driving with my sister, Deborah, on unfamiliar roads through vast untamed landscapes reminded us of those journeys of our childhood.  

It felt, in some elemental way, as though we were writing a new geography into our being as we traveled  across the country.











It felt, in some elemental way, as though we were writing a new geography
into our being  as we traveled across the country. 
And perhaps also leaving some memory of ourselves along the way,
like a hint of trailing scent marking a territory.

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Water that Thunders

 If we had been at Augrabies Falls at the beginning, not the end, of  2011 we would have encountered the falls in full flood.  The photos below were taken in January 2011 and displayed at the information centre.   Many of the observation platforms were washed away by the force of the water.  

Just being at Augrabies  under normal circumstances was awesome enough -- made me aware of my fragile humanity in the face and  power of nature.  But imagine being there during a flood like the one  photographed below!!  

Augrabies  is a Khoi word that means "water that thunders"








Thursday, December 15, 2011

Off the Beaten Track


Where to begin?    I’m in South Africa --- on the open road. Traveling through remote and lonely landscapes.  Vast distances. Magnificent skies. Ancient broken geography that has humbled me, stilled my soul.   

I’ve been traveling with my sister, Deborah, in her green Suzuki  4 wheel  drive which she bought (second- hand) the day before we set off.  She wanted an adventure.    Me too.  (I think we have it in our genes).  

So we took a long and less traveled route from Johannesburg to Cape Town and at times felt we were the only people on this earth.  We drove and drove on an empty road with dry country stretching out on either side. We saw no one else when we hiked along the precipice of a gigantic gorge,  and were  alone when we wandered for hours through strange and otherworldly rock formations and ancient caves.   



We spent two nights at Augrabies Falls (towards the border with Namibia). 
This is where the Orange River thunders into a sheer ravine. 
Supposedly the sixth largest falls in the world. 

The scale of it !!




Deborah on Arrow Point

Hanging on to my hat


And to myself







 There is a strange and oddly indifferent energy about the place. 
Wherever you look, shapes of elemental figures and faces reveal 
themselves in the rocks and in the plunging cliffs.  
It feels as though something ancient and powerful 
is being held in the stone.    
Waiting....